Thoughts on Siquijor

For some people, the word "escape" brings them to distant shores and strange lands, the extremes in both landscape and culture to be experienced with a ready sense of adventure, an itchy pair of feet and a sturdy stomach.

One weekend of July was no ordinary--an escape to a paradise found, all shrouded both in mystery and charm. It was a bit ecstatic to have a glimpse of the mystical island from afar, which is even made more exciting by the group of clouds scattered all over its horizon. From where I stood at the old, rusty and slow-running ship, I drew scenarios that would unfold in my six-hour escape to the mystical island of Siquijor.

The heat was unforgiving when I set foot in the so-called island of fire. As we circled the island, we came up with the thought that this island is truly one of its kind.

Siquijor was barely on my radar then, not being a natural destination for the faint-hearted. For all our madness and flirtation with adventure, I popped out the question to our driver (who also served as our tour guide) the inevitable: Is there really such thing as witchcraft practices in the island? 

There was an awkward silence. Moments later, he affirmatively replied, to the point of enumerating words like mambabarang and even aswang. But these are just a thing of the past, he said. While some still exist, their numbers are few. 

As we traversed the nicely-paved road network, I found out that the quaint in Siquijor mixes easily with modern world. When we made it to the serene and peaceful part of the island—all vouched with the rustic feel of old houses and eerie-looking line of huge trees—I began to associate Siquijor as a paradise perfect for a weekend escape. 

No place in the island gave me a sense of time standing still more than the spot in Salagdoong, a remote, government-owned beach resort in the town of Maria. It’s a 360-degree visual treat, its palette dominated by aqua blue, its sea breeze a massage to the ear—perfect ingredients for a sweet escape. Old churches also dot the island; a 400-year old balete tree stands like a king, a carefree and lonely road leading you to pleasant surprises appearing in a form of a cascading waterfall, an old-fashioned town plaza, paintings on the ceilings of stone churches and most importantly, the people who are flashing the warmest smile one could ever see.

The journey to Siquijor is all worth it. As I am lulled by the waves on my way back, the memories of the island flashed in my mind: the almost glorious isolation in a time that ran slow. What a wonderful escape!

Until next time, beautiful Siquijor!

L.

Weekend Getaway in Islas de Gigantes

PROVINCE OF ILOILO—From afar, the majestic silhouette of Northern Iloilo’s little-known jewel radiates a feeling that somewhat a giant is waiting to be either conquered or explored. Braving the rough sea and the wild clash of the big waves, I managed to set foot at last in this province’s last frontier—Isla de Gigantes—which is brimming with natural wonders ripe for the world to see.

Lodged in the northeastern part of Panay Island, Isla de Gigantes boasts of pristine and raw beaches that are exuding charm and mystery. Legends and folklore immediately speak as I arrived in the island at night. Legends have it that the Gigante Islands are reigned with “giants” way back then, and this is supported with artifacts found in one of its many caves. I didn’t see real giants when I stayed there; what I saw instead are warm people standing tall and proud like a giant with their prized possession: the islands itself.

And this is where I experienced my first solo backpacking trip—in this little-known place and undoubtedly a hidden gem that’s poised to carve its name in tourism circles for its enchanting charm. 

One would surely fall in love with its group of amazing islands like the Cabugao Gamay which is my favorite. Here, you can climb in a rocky hill where you’ll have a fantastic vista of the whole island itself. Up there, the sight of fisherfolks resting on midday is a worthwhile experience while witnessing viewing the frantic union of the white sand and the blue-green water. This explodes into white foam as it reaches the shore. 

Traveling Louie on top of the Cabugao Gamay Island in Isla de Gigantes, Carles, Northern Iloilo.

Snorkeling is a fun thing to do in Antonia Island where you’ll be able to swim with a school of colorful fishes above the coral reefs. This is also where I braved the scorching heat of the sun to have a swim. Except for my tour guides and the island’s caretaker, it was only me swimming in the island in midday, savoring the sea after a sumptuous lunch. 

Not far from Antonia is the Bantigue Sandbar which is also a magnet for tourists. It offers a good view of a fiery sunset during low tide which is the only time you’ll be able to see for yourself its snake-like formation.

The biggest star in this island escapade is the Tangke Saltwater Lagoon which is formed by a surrounding wall of monolithic cliffs. The place looks like an oasis of comfort. During the habagat season, it would be very difficult to reach this place due to the big waves that clash with the stones in its entrance. Notwithstanding the huge waves, we managed to cross the threshold and under the flares of the sun, we basked in its glory. 

The Tangke Saltwater Lagoon

Big waves hinder us from exploring the rest of the islands in the area like the Uaydahon, Sicogon, Gaket-gaket, Pulupandan and Balbagon—places that would surely bring me back to this place. Summer would surely be the best time to go back, when the sea is calm and the sun rises up to the mightiest. 

The travel to these islands which are located mostly in Gigantes Sur is a treat in itself where you’ll witness fishes putting up a show: flying up a bit and get some air. 

Thing is, Gigante Islands is a world within a world. It has its own way of slowing down things and nature spoils you for a choice. This is a place for those who want to relax or finish an almost forgotten song or to enjoy the mouth-watering seafoods! Oh-la-la! There’s no signal in the island so forget about the harsh world and let yourself relax through music or by reading a book. 

Gigantes Sur

Appreciate silence in Antonia Island

A world within a world

The New Lighthouse in Asluman, Gigantes Norte

The Old Structure of the Gigantes Lighthouse in Barangay Asluman, Gigantes Norte

A coffin measuring measuring 8 feet in length found in one of the caves of Gigantes Norte. It could be true that the islands are once inhabited by giants! 

Sunset in Barangay Granada, Gigantes Norte

Sunrise in Asluman

Gigantes Norte is known to be the Scallop Capital of Carles. Here, children pose with scallop shells which are forming hills in many places in the island.

Seaweeds

Lunch will truly be nice here, right?

Tourism development barely started a year and a half ago, according to Carles Tourism Officer Joel Decano who also owns and operates the island’s lone inn that accommodates tourists: The Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn. There’s really a big room for improvement but given more time, Isla de Gigantes would surely be a giant name in Philippine tourism. By the way, Gigantes Norte also hosts within its soil numerous caves which make it very cool. Water is not a problem in the Gigantes Hideaway Inn as it has developed a system that gets spring water directly from its mountains and it’s for free. Electricity turns on by 5 in the evening and shuts down by 11 but the inn has a generator. 

The amenities of the Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn... sort of like a home-stay. It's great.

Isla de Gigantes, without a doubt, is a giant waiting to be explored. I already did and it’s high time that you, too, should see for yourself its majestic islands colored by fiery sunrises and sunsets and bask in full glory in its pristine and raw beaches.

Louie.

GETTING THERE

From Manila or Davao, take the earliest flight to the City of Iloilo. From Iloilo International Airport, hire a taxi that will take you to Tagbak Northbound Terminal in Jaro District in Iloilo City (fare: 380 pesos). You can either take a bus or a van to get you to the coastal town of Estancia. The van is the most preferred mode of transportation because of its fast mobility. By van, it would take two hours to reach Estancia compared to bus’ five hours. Tagbak to Estancia would cost you 150 pesos.

Upon arrival, take a motorcycle (fare: 10 pesos) to the Port of Estancia. Here, a motorized pumpboat leaves for Asluman, Gigantes Norte every 2:00 PM everyday. NO other trips will take you there so it’s better that you should be early in the port. The same boat leaves Asluman at about 9:00 AM in the morning everyday. Islas de Gigantes is 18 kilometers off the coast of mainland Panay Island or two hours away via the pumpboat.

Upon arrival at Asluman, ride a habal-habal (fare:10 pesos) to Gigantes Hideaway Inn in Sitio Hayahay.

CONTACT PERSON: Mr. JOEL DECANO, Municipal Tourism Officer of Carles, Iloilo
                                    Owner, Gigantes Hideaway Tourist Inn
                                    09184685006

Once there, request for MR. JOFER DECANO to be your tour guide. He was my tour guide when I was there and he’s really nice and he is also a good photographer who can take you a decent picture if you are traveling solo. His contact number is 09199739477.

Special thank you’s to the DECANO FAMILY who are very warm and accommodating as well as to the boat owner (I forgot to ask his name) who let me hitch a ride in his cargo pumpboat because I was 30 minutes late going to Gigantes. I almost did not see the wonder of Isla de Gigantes. I’ll be forever grateful.

Danao, You're Really Worth It

There's something in Danao City in Northern Cebu that captured my heart. Its simple yet picturesque scene stole my heart I wanna go back. When high school buddy and our batch's salutatorian Glece Anthony Adlawan told me and Zyzle that Danao is just an hour away from Cebu City, I did not hesitate to decide to explore what's in it.

From Cebu, we found ourselves in an overloaded jeepney heading towards the coastal town of Danao. The moment we arrived there at 2 o'clock in the afternoon, the first thing we did is look for some water at Gaisano Capital, just right across the city's terminal. Mineral Water seems to be so elusive and we just found ourselves dropping one peso coin in an ATM Machine in a nearby sari-sari store. Just so you know, ATM stands for Automatic Tubig Machine.

The facade of the city hall conveys modernity and style. Its exterior looks like that of Tagum City Hall. My first impression of the city is that it's too serene and peaceful with only kids and teenagers roaming in this hot Saturday afternoon. I was told that Danao also boasts of its many Rizal statues and many plazas. I found one myself.

But what left me in awe is its old church. It was just awesome. I prayed a little wish there, something I wish could come true.

When it was time to go, my eyes gazed the sea that seems never ending. As I stare on its blue green hue, I hope I could go back and explore its unexplored corners.

Danao, you're really worth it.

Louie.

Danao is located in the northern part of Cebu facing the Camotes Islands. It lies in the eastern coast between Compostela and Carmen and bounded on the west by the municipalities of Balamban, Asturias and Tuburan. It is 8.20 kilometers from Carmen to the North; 97.0 kilometers from Balamban (via Toledo City); 92.14 kilometers from Asturias (via Lugo); 7.80 kilometers from Compostela to the South; and 33.1 kilometers from Cebu City, reckoned from kilometer 00.0 at the Cebu Provincial Capitol Building.  Public transport coming in and out of Danao City are mostly passenger jeepney’s plying the Danao-Cebu route. Passenger busses also pass by Danao City on the way to the northern towns like Bogo from Cebu City and vice-versa.

Cebu Weekend Getaway

A sun-kissed Cebu greeted me and my travel buddy when we landed in her soil. From above, the Queen City of the South looks like a threshold of adventures: beautiful landscapes, some towering edifices and lush green. While peeping in the plane's window, I felt jitters as well as excitement in the sense that it would be my first time to step into the Visayas, particularly in the heart of Metropolitan Cebu. This three-day trip was indeed full of firsts: It would be my first time traveling that is not work-related and it's my travel buddy Zyzle's first time to ride an airplane. It's also our first trip together as best friends. We left Tagum City for Davao at around 4:30 in the morning to catch with our 8:20 AM flight.

When our plane landed twenty minutes ahead of time, we immediately went to Lapu-Lapu Shrine in Mactan. There, we were amazed by the sight of the first Filipino Hero's statue facing the shore of Mactan. Wayback April 1521, Lapu-Lapu became the first Filipino to defeat European Agression by killing Ferdinand Magellan.

After this, we immediately proceeded to Cebu City through a hired taxi cab and paid 250 pesos to bring us to our pension house -- Roseatte Pension House in V. Urgello Street. It's located in the stretch of the famous Osmeña Boulevard, just across Crown Regency Suites. From our room, we're amazed by the sight of people who braved the towering heights trying the hotel's Skywalk and Coaster Edge.

I must say that I have a penchant for all things vintage. Thus, the first spot that we visited in downtown Cebu was its City Museum and Public Library. Sad to say, the museum was on its annual inventory which means that all its historical facts are not displayed. We just enjoyed the on-going Art Gallery Exhibition in the second floor. We're grateful for the City Information Officer of Cebu for sharing to me and Zyzle the many museums in the city and even warned us that pickpockets and snatchers are rampant in downtown Cebu. From there, we visited the President Sergio Osmeña Museum along Osmeña Boulevard. We learned that it was indeed the ancestral house of the former president. It feels like the 50's when we viewed the old artifacts on display at the two-storey edifice: old shoes, coats, hats, newspapers, mace, a cadillac vintage car and historical documents owned by President Osmeña.

Our Cebu trip won't be complete without visiting Magellan's Cross and Basilica Minore de Santo Niño. It was great visiting the place because we can feel the strong faith of the Cebuanos. We can say that Cebu City is indeed the stronghold of Catholicism in the country. We also visited the Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral which is just adjacent to the Basilica.

SECOND DAY: REUNION NORTHERN STYLE

On our second day, our high school buddy and fellow Tromans Glece (who is living in Cebu for three years now) joined us. It's also the first we saw each other after he left us in Tagum three years ago. He and his partner brought us to the famous Taoist Temple in Beverly Hills, Lahug. From there, we traveled to the northern part of the province of Cebu passing through Mandaue, Compostela, Consolacion, Liloan and Danao City. It was Danao that captured my heart. This simple city facing the sea speaks of elegance and Filipino living. The old-feel of the Danao City church will truly leave you breathless. In Liloan, I just wished to visit their famous lighthouse but just ended up taking a picture of its replica facing their church.

 From our very quick trip up north, we headed back south and spent the remaining hours at SM City Cebu and Ayala Center Cebu. Both malls are amazing.

Taoist Temple, Beverly Hills, Cebu City

The view from the rooftop of our pension house

THIRD DAY: FUNNY ANECDOTES

While gallivanting the other day, we talked about why people would wave at the Sto. Niño at the Basilica. Glece couldn't give an exact answer. In search for an answer, we went back to the Basilica to supposedly hear Mass and to have a closer look of the venerable image of Sto. Niño. We fell in line at the Augustinian Convent to have a seconds-long encounter with Cebu's patron. From there, we went to Plaza Independencia and Malacañang sa Sugbu. It was also the time when Zyzle bought pasalubongs and other burloloys. Looking for  thirst-quenching drinks, we asked a guard where is the nearby ATM. He promptly said it's near the Landbank. We walked without even saying thanks (nyay!) and ten steps had gone and we just realized that the ATM he is referring to is the Automatic Teller Machine and not the so-called Automatic Tubig Machine which is Cebu City's famous thirst-quencher machine. You'll just have to drop a one-peso coin similar to that of a videoke machine and water will spill from it.

I'll always have fond memories of the Queen City of the South. Both Zyzle and I agreed to come back to her next year. This time, together with Jenniper and Exot and we'll go as far as Bogo -- the northernmost part of the province. Glece gave a hunch that we could even go to nearby Bantayan Island if we would want to.

We will. I am looking forward to my second time time in Cebu to make new memories, new moments and new escapades.

Louie.