Beauty that is Lake Holon

Panoramic Shot of the amazing Lake Holon in Tboli, South Cotabato

The mountains persisted in summoning my soul despite the countless times I dreaded it for its treacherous hills and its dangerous ravines. This time, I found myself in the deep jungles of South Cotabato's tribal municipality of T'boli, a land endowed with the gifts of nature and nurtured by the vibrant people that carried its name. In this town, simplicity is king, from its laid-back poblacion to the peaceful sitios. Life is slow here, which makes it all the more enticing. In this town also lies what could be considered as South Cotabato's prized gem—Lake Holon—which, despite its being serene and silent and relatively unknown, trumpets the moniker of the province as a prime destination for tourists possessing an excess appetite for adventure.

Centuries ago, the place where the lake is situated has become a witness to the rumblings of Mt. Parker, a stratovolcano that has last erupted in 1641. The eruption led to the formation of the Crater Lake, that became an abode for different creatures including the highly-celebrated tilapia. For two years in a row, Lake Holon—settled at 1,350 meters above sea level— earned the distinction as the cleanest lake in the Philippines.

The T'bolis protect it with highest regard, considering it as the gift from the Supreme Being. While allowing the public to marvel at the lake's unparalleled beauty, the tribe also sees to it that the lake will not be subject for abuse and destruction. The soft-speaking T'bolis, who undeniably bears the country's warmest smile, commit their life to maintain the sacredness and cleanliness of Holon.

Holon is an image of serenity and peace from afar and at close range.

In the waning days of this year’s blistering summer, I joined a number of travel bloggers from Davao and Manila to discover Lake Holon. From a distance or at close range, enjoying the beauty of the lake is sweet and satisfying. But getting to Holon is not easy as strolling in the park. One has to walk past through a thick canopy of forest trees, in a trail that will offer you different treats taking form of a cold stream, towering trees with really huge trunks, abaca, wild orchids and flowers or better yet, the company you’re with.


From downtown T’boli, a force-strainer dumptruck ride to Sitio Kulé in Barangay Salacafe first defined the adventure we’re in. A 45-minute ride, the trip will pass through banana plantations and will give you beautiful sights of hills that seem manicured. The Kulé trail is not the regular route for tourists. The regular entry point for a trek to Holon is through Sitio Nabol, also in Salacafe. Espousing “mountaineering with a heart,” we chose Kulé as our jump-off point since climb organizer Friends of Holon and Melibingoy (FHM) arranged an outreach activity for the tribes of Kulé. Now on its tenth installment, the Takladtamig Outreach Climb offers participants a chance to lend a hand, plant a tree and be amazed with nature.

An authentic T'boli lunch was prepared for us by the community.

Past one o’clock and after the typical native lunch prepared by the community, the four-hour trek commenced. An open trail paved our way to the jungle, as clouds gathered in a distant horizon. As we ascended mountains after mountains, we gasped in between every step, taking respite every now and then. Going on, we also let our feet walk on a cold stream and used its water to wash our faces. From open spaces to narrow paths, the road to Holon is no joke.

Gathering clouds hover above the hinterlands of Sitio Kule upon the commencement of our trek.

It's an uphill battle but it's all worth it. Composite photos courtesy of Madayaw Edwin Lasquite

Three hours on the trail, I could feel my tongue touching the ground. It was a draining climb just like any other mountain, but as the cliché goes, the paths may be long and hard but those are the ones that lead to the most beautiful views.

In the case of Holon, these beautiful views comes in two packages.

The birds-eye panoramic view of Lake Holon from the viewdeck tops the list. Trekkers from Sitio Nabol will never have the chance to set foot in the viewdeck (unless they intend to climb it), so I consider my chance to get there as a “reward” for the exhausting climb. Standing there eased all the pains in climbing, as you let yourself be overwhelmed by God’s obra maestra. It might be true that you already have a picture in mind of what the lake looks like (thanks to the internet), but nothing prepares you for a sight as beautiful as the caldera of Holon. That brief stop there didn't last five minutes, but that sense of fulfillment of being there goes on for a lifetime.

Climb exhaustion will surely be drained once you arrive in the viewdeck, giving you a breath-taking view of the lake caldera. Photo Courtesy of Sir Louie Pacardo of www.nomadperspectives.com

Compared to Mt. Apo which I dared to climb last year, I labeled this trek as manageable. But maybe I spoke too soon. Coming from the viewdeck, the one-hour trek going down to the campsite was exhausting and truth be told, sent chills down to my spine. Lumbering down a steep and slick series of steps, I almost passed out but thanks to the Heavens, I managed to make it on the ground.

The next thing I remembered was sitting in the grass for a couple of minutes and passed the night away inside the tent with the music of Michael Bublé. The gentle lull of the lake combined with the sound of nature brought me to sleep that night. From the tent where I'm lying, the blurry glow of moonlight added drama to that poignant sky covered with clouds the color of porridge rice.

Waking up in the campsite of Holon is second. Feeling recharged, I opened the tent knowing I’ll be mesmerized once more. I arrived at the lake in pitch black the other night, so I was excited upon opening the tent. Lo and behold, a placid lake! Watching it up close is truly rewarding. I have never been so engrossed all my life upon gazing at nature's wonder that is uniquely Holon. Soon after, the sun's rays slowly hovered over the ranges of Mt. Parker (also known as Melibingoy) in the east side, providing a clearer view of the lake and the trees that surround it.

A calm scene in the lake just before the sun shows its rays in Lake Holon

Early Morning in Lake Holon

Our camping site in the lakeshore

Our group posing at the serene lake shortly before leaving.

Swimming in the lake means sharing the waters with tiny fingerlings and tilapia, which is abundant in the area. In fact, we had fresh tilapia for our dinner the other night. But mind you, the green hue of the lake means it's very deep. Panaroids, who allegedly "bombed" the lake in 1995, believe that the Yamashita Treasure lies in the deep lake. The lake overflowed as if wailing and crying, causing the death of several people in the lake that time.

Whatever it is, the real treasure is the lake itself. The T'bolis must ensure, with the leadership of its local government, for the maintenance of the cleanliness and the sacredness of the lake. But I have no doubt in their commitment to do the task in hand, because the umbilical connection between them and the lake is deeply-rooted.

Leaving the lake on that very day, I also developed that strange umbilical connection with Lake Holon. It was undeniably fulfilling, making it a trip I would like to take again, no matter how many times I'll dread the mountains for its treacherous hills and dangerous ravines.

Louie.

Until next time, beautiful Holon! Photo courtesy of  Caroline Espejon

Prepare yourself for a long trip ahead, both in public transport and through your feet. The best time to leave Davao City heading to General Santos City is at 12 midnight (Fare as of this writing is 270 pesos). Upon arriving at GenSan early morning, take the bus to Koronadal (fare: 97 pesos for an hour-ride). From there, take another 45-minute ride to the municipality of T'boli (70 pesos).

Go directly to the Municipal Tourism Office to arrange your journey to Holon. From downtown T'boli, a 30 to 40-minute habal-habal ride will take you to Sitio Nabol, where the jump-off point for an established trail for regular tourists and newbies is located. The trail we took in Sitio Kule that we took is considered to be a hunter's trail. From Sitio Nabol, prepare yourself for a three to four hour of trekking to get to the campsite in the lakeshore of Holon. There's no water source along the way, so you better bring a considerable amount of water to keep you hydrated. In the campsite, you can ask your Tboli porters to fetch water on the other side of the lake. Enjoy!

PS:
Thank you to the Mindanao Tourism Council and the Friends of Holon and Melibingoy (FHM) for letting me be a part of this wonderful experience. Yahoo! Until next time?